Sleeve Block, McCunn System
Sleeve Block, McCunn System
These instructions are based on the instructions and method from the book How to Make Sewing Patterns by Don McCunn (1977 revised edition) ISBN 0-932538-00-2. This book has been updated and may be purchased from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Sewing-Patterns-second/dp/0932538215. In this tutorial, the method described there will be referred to as “the McCunn method”.
Measurements
The following Valentina measurements are required to construct a sleeve block using the McCunn method.
- L01 arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent
- L16 arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line
- L11 arm_upper_circ
- D04 hand_palm_circ
- L02 arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent
Before attempting to draft a sleeve pattern with this method, ensure that you have created and saved a measurement file (.vit) which contains values for L01, L02, L11, L16, and D04. This may be accomplished using the TAPE program (see Tape User Manual.
The instructions for drafting a basic sleeve may be found on pages 71-75 in the 1977 revised edition or pages 79-82 in the 2016 second edition. In the McCunn method, the five measurements required to draft a basic sleeve are called
- Arm Length
- Sleeve Cap
- Biceps
- Palm
- Shoulder to Elbow
Formulas
Detailed instructions on creating the formulas to support the creation of the sleeve pattern may be found here and here.
Figure 1 presents the same information as a drawing from the book that describes the method. This picture shows the basic reference lines and other major lines used in constructing the main portion of the sleeve.
The McCunn method uses two reference lines. The Sleeve Centerline is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the Valentina measurement arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent.
The Biceps Line is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement arm_upper_circ plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center. Wearing ease is defined in the book as a fixed number (1.5" in each half of the line for a total of 3"). This line is drawn at a distance of arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line from the top of the Sleeve Centerline.
To facilitate the pattern created in Valentina in being scalable, the wearing ease will be calculated as 20% of the arm_upper_circ. For example, a person with a measurement of 15" at the bicep would have a sleeve drawn by this method with 3" wearing ease.
The Wrist Line is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement hand_palm_circ extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline. By using the palm circumference instead of the wrist circumference, we will ensure that the sleeve opening is large enough for the wearer's hand to pass through.
The shoulder_to_elbow Measurement would be used to place the elbow dart to shape the sleeve. Although the book describes adding a dart at the elbow, we will omit that from this tutorial because it does not add to the user's ability to learn to use the Valentina tools.
Figure 1-V shows the same drawing as Figure 1, but shows the image as it will be presented in the valentina program after you have finished the first half of the detailed steps of this tutorial. These steps of the detailed instructions will create this construct which will act as the basis for the arm portion of the sleeve pattern.
The lines shown in the goldenrod color will not be printed on the final pattern. The lines shown in the black color will be incorporated during the details steps to form part of the printed pattern.
The detailed instructions for the second half of the sleeve block pattern will create constructs to define the arm hole curve and the sleeve cap portions of the sleeve pattern.
Figure 2 shows the special points used in constructing the sleeve cap portion of the sleeve.
PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS PAGE IN UNDER CONSTRUCTION. You may click here to go to the detailed page that describes the steps used to implement the formulas.