Sewing Definitions

From Seamly

This is a list of sewing and pattern-making definitions. Please expand it or add translations.

Sewing Term Definition Image
Bust point A point at the front of a garment, between the 'top' and 'waist' vertically, representing the nominal center position for the bust in a ladies garment. It is used to position certain seams, or darts.
center front A line running vertically, representing the center line at the front of a garment. May be used as a 'seam', 'fold', or pattern marking line.
center back A line running vertically, representing the nominal center line at the back of a garment.
circle skirt A skirt formed by considering the waist as a cricle, the radius of that circle + the skirt length being used to draft
depth of scye A vertical distance (in some historical pattern systems), from the neck of the nape to a horizontal lane between the armpits typically at the back. (see Measurement: ?)
dart 1. A fold sewn into fabric to remove ease or to assist in shaping (see )
fish dart (aka pence or pince in Italian talioring) A removed section of fabric along a defined axes, the removal being formed by symmetrical curved arcs, drawn such that the widest seperation of the arcs is of a defined width, lying perpendicular to the defined axes, at a defined point. Not to be confused with a simple dart, as they may be sewn differently according to a forum contributor with extensive talioring experience. (see )
grading An adjustment process whereby a pattern or draft is adjusted for different sizes; (see
grading, rule based The original base pattern is created by using pattern formulas plus base body measurements. Each successive size pattern is drawn around the previous size pattern by extending out from specific points around the pattern outline. Lines and curves are drawn between the new points to complete the new size pattern.
grading, chart based This is the Seamly2D method. A Multisize chart is created by successively adding small amounts (as defined by a set of rules) to body measurements, starting with base size body measurements. Each size pattern is created by applying each measurement set directly to the pattern formulas – a copy of a smaller sized pattern is not required.
gore A triangular, rhomboid or trapezoidal piece of fabric, typically used in the construction of shaped portion which curves, such as the sections of a skirt. ( See also 'section', 'pattern piece' )
notch A point marked on one pattern piece so it can be matched to a similar point on another pattern piece.
seam A 'join' between two sections of a pattern or fabric, which is sewn during garment construction.
seam (princess) A 'seam' typically used in a blouse, shirt or dress, which adds curvature to a garment, and to fit a garment. A typical princess seam runs from the shoulder, over the bust point, to the base of the garment.
seam allowance An additional measure added at a seam shown on a pattern. Depending on the pattern or system, you may have to provide this manually. (Seamly 2D has an option for Seam allowances when creating a Layout)
scye A curve typically representing an armhole in a design. ( see also, Typically formed from number or other arcing or curved edges on pattern pieces, which combine to form the curve when the garment design is constructed. (See also Measurement: L19-22, L29, L28)
skirt (1) A circular garment worn at the waist. Can come in many forms such as a circular skirt amongst others.
"right"-side. The 'front' or visible decorative side of a fabric, textile or construction material
seat A measurement representing the maximum width needed to accommodate the widest point below the waist, (see also Measurement: G08, G09)
square from a line to draw a line perpendicular to another line, squaring from a vertical line means you draw horizontally to or from it a given point.

(Seamly 2D has a tool for creating a point, perpendicular to a given line.)||

sloper (aka block) An initial preliminary pattern for a garment type or portion of a garment, upon which more detailed suseqeunt drafts will be based.
"wrong"-side The 'back' or non visible side of a fabric, textile or construction material.