Block Patterns:McCunn:Sleeve

Block Patterns : McCunn : Sleeve

Setup

Book

These instructions are based on the instructions and method from the book How to Make Sewing Patterns by Don McCunn (1977 revised edition) ISBN 0-932538-00-2. This book has been updated and may be purchased from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Sewing-Patterns-second/dp/0932538215.

The instructions for drafting this sleeve block may be found on pages 71-75 in the 1977 revised edition or pages 79-82 in the 2016 second edition.

Units

The McCunn method uses inches. Select 'inches' as the unit when you create your McCunn block pattern file in Seamly2D. If your measurement file is in centimeters, Seamly2D will automatically make the conversion to inches.

Measurements

The following Seamly2D measurements are required to create the McCunn sleeve block. The shoulder_to_elbow measurement is used to place the elbow dart to shape the sleeve. Although the book describes adding a dart at the elbow, the elbow dart will be omitted from this tutorial because it does not add to the user's ability to learn to use the Seamly2D tools.

McCunn Measurement Name	SeamlyMe Measurement Name	SeamlyMe Measurement Image
Arm length	arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent	L01
Shoulder to Elbow length	arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent	L02
Sleevecap length	arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line	L16
Biceps	arm_upper_circ	L11
Palm	hand_palm_circ	D04

Variables

Wearing ease for the Bicepsline is three inches (3"), but this amount can be generalized to 20% of arm_upper_circ. Create the BicepsEase variable in the Variables/Increments Table dialog with formula=(arm_upper_circ*0.20). This variable can be used in formulas as #BicepsEase

Draw

The letter 'A' is the prefix for sleeve points in this tutorial. When you create the sleeve pattern piece in Seamly2D, it may be assigned a different prefix letter.

Construction Lines

Create construction lines as in Figure 1.

Figure 1 - Basic construction lines for the McCunn sleeve block

1. Point A: Add the Sleeve pattern piece in Seamly2D 'Draw mode' with the New Pattern Piece icon and name it Sleeve.
2. Point A1: Create the vertical Centerline with the Point from distance and angle tool, length=arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent, angle=170.
   
3. Point A2: Mark the Bicepsline with the Point along line tool, 1st point=A1, 2nd point=A, length=arm_shoulder_to_foldline_f
   
4. Point A3: Create the front Bicepsline at a right angle to the Centerline with the Point from Perpendicular tool, 1st point=A2, 2nd point=A, length=(arm_upper_circ + #BicepsEase)/2
5. Point A4: Create the back Bicepsline at a right angle to the Centerline with the Point from Perpendicular tool, 1st point=A2, 2nd point=A1, length=(arm_upper_circ + #BicepsEase)/2
6. Point A5: Create the front Wristline at a right angle to the Centerline with the Point from Perpendicular tool, 1st point=A1, 2nd point=A, length=(hand_palm_circ/2)
7. Point A6: Create the back Wristline at a right angle to the Centerline with the Point from Perpendicular tool, 1st point=A1, 2nd point=A, length=(hand_palm_circ/2), and reverse the line's angle by clicking on the left-center blue arrow to add 180 degrees.
   
8. Line Line_C_C3: Draw a dashed line from point C to point C3 with the Line tool, 1st point=C, 2nd point=C3
9. Line Line_C_C4: Draw a dashed line from point C to point C3 with the Line tool, 1st point=C, 2nd point=C4

Sleevecap

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Figure 2

Elbow Dart

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Wrist

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Details

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Layout

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Print

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