Block Pattern tutorials

Introduction to Block Pattern tutorials

This section of tutorials is not targeted toward people with extensive patternmaking experience. This section is intended to assist users who may be new to the pattern making process and who are using one of the pattern making systems for which Seamly2D is designed. Seamly2D provides many useful features but it does not create a pattern without the appropriate input.

For a more detailed instructions to the Seamly2D program, please see the User Manual

A list of Patternmaking References is available in the User Manual. This tutorial is intended to contain basic tutorials on creating a simple pattern with each system.

This tutorial will begin by choosing one Pattern Making system (the McCunn system) and describing how to create the basic pattern blocks using that system.

The pattern and measurement files created as part of the tutorials will be available here as part of the Seamly2D wiki pattern list

Basic Block Patterns

Block patterns are simple, basic pattern forms. They are sometimes referred to as 'blocks' or 'slopers'.

Block patterns:

• typically do not include facings, collars, pockets, waistbands, or other design details
• are not usually graded into additional sizes
• are copied and modified each time a new garment is designed

Terms to know:

• Measurement set: The selection of which body measurements to use for creating a block pattern
• Base measurements: The actual measurements (in centimeters or inches) taken from the model, client, mannequin, or standard measurement table
• Base model, or Fit model: When a designer's chooses a particular person's measurements to create their basic fit. The block patterns are created to fit these measurements. Famous fit models are sometimes referred to as their designer's 'muse'.

A good discussion on creating block patterns can be found on the Fashion Incubator blog in ["What is a Sloper?" ]

Bodice Blocks

Some pattern making systems create the Bodice Front and Bodice Back as a single pattern piece, other systems create the Front and Back as separate pieces.

• Bodice Block, McCunn System
• Bodice Block, Leena's Patternmaker’

Sleeve Blocks

Some Bodice, Dress, Shirt, Jacket, and Coat blocks contain a sleeve pattern which doesn't use information from the armscye; the sleeve pattern only uses arm measurements and can be created independently from the rest of the pattern pieces.

• Sleeve Block, McCunn System

Skirt Blocks

• Skirt Block, McCunn System

Pants Blocks

• Pants Block, McCunn System

Block Combinations

Block patterns can be combined to form more complex block patterns.

Dress Blocks from Bodice and Skirt Blocks

• Dress Block, McCunn System

Jacket and Coat Blocks from Bodice Blocks

• Jacket Block, McCunn System

Block Variations and Techniques

This section is not designed to be a textbook on fashion design. It is intended to be a discussion of techniques that are used among many of the reference material on patternmaking and design. This is by no means an exhaustive list. The types of variations possible are limited only by the imagination of the designer.

Many methods exist to transform a pattern into a different style. Many women's patterns use darts to shape the garment. Moving the dart can open up possibilities for design variations. Techniques such as slash, spread, and pivot are commonly used in several systems. This section will describe how to use Seamly2D to implement these techniques.

• Changing seam location
• Changing dart location
• Changing darts to seams
• Adding fullness

Bodice Block variations

Some additional variations will be discussed here including the princess seam, curved dart, shoulder darts, shoulder gathers, and the addition of a yoke.

• Gathered Sleeve Cap
• Bodice Block, Back variations

Sleeve Block variations

Many variations are possible beginning with a basic sleeve pattern.

• Flounced Sleeve
• Gathered Sleeve Top
• Gathered Sleeve Cap
• Leg-of-Mutton Sleeve
• Puffed Sleeve
• Bell Sleeve
• Cape Sleeve

Skirt Block variations

• Variation #1 (stub)
• Variation #2 (stub)

Pants Block Variations

• Variation #1 (stub)
• Variation #2 (stub)

Dress Block Variations

• Variation #1 (stub)
• Variation #2 (stub)

Jacket Block Variations

• Variation #1 (stub)
• Variation #2 (stub)

Coat Block Variations

• Variation #1 (stub)
• Variation #2 (stub)