UserManual:Introduction: Difference between revisions

Currently, there is a lack of affordable software tools designed for creating patterns. Some people faced with this problem resort to using CAD tools or graphical editors designed for other purposes. However, theseThese tools are inadequate when performing certain pattern making tasks (e.g. adding seam allowance, truing a dart, walking a seam). Moreover, theseThese programs are good enough tocan create a pattern in a single size, but when you want to make changesthe pattern for anothera specific person, then you can'tmust dore-create itthe quicklypattern from scratch. YouAlso, needmaking changes to create the design of a paper or CAD pattern fromis scratchdifficult and time consuming. This is where traditional methods of pattern drafting can be very useful. Why can't you tell a program how to change the pattern so you don't need to do it ever again?

== WhyWhat useis thePattern traditional methodMaking? == <!--T:8-->

'''Pattern Making''' or '''Pattern drafting''' is a system of pattern making where the lengths and positions of the pattern lines are calculated using mathematical formulas. These formulas depend on a set of body measurements either from a standard figuresize or from an individual's measurements. The better the formulaformulas, the better the fit of the resulting garment. Unfortunately, devising formulas to make 2D cloth fit a 3D figure is not easy. Therefore, formulas are typically used to create only the most basic patterns, known as "slopers".

Contemporary pattern makers rarely use drafting methods becauseto theycreate findbasic itsimple inefficientpattern toshapes, start patternscalled from scratch"blocks". Instead, theyThey use existinga patterns, called "blocks",block as a starting pointbase to create new styles. They modify the blocks using '''flat pattern making''' techniques. These techniques consist of cutting sections of the patternblock and manipulating the pieces to relocate darts, add fullness, add tucks or other design elements, and shape the pattern to fit the hollows of the human body (i.e. contouring). A complex pattern created withfrom thesea techniquesblock stillwill fitsfit the standard figuresize or the individual's body for which the original block was created. However, compared to a pattern created with formulas, this pattern does not adjust as easily to a different set of measurements.

The advantage of recreating pattern drafting techniques in software is that the resulting formula-based patterns can be automatically custom-fitted to an individual's measurements. However, in orderor to createa patternsdifferent that are more complex than the traditional sloper, it is necessary to translate the flat pattern manipulations into formulas as wellsize. We believe that, using a bit of ingenuity and computing power, we can accomplish this task.

Why is it important to make the pattern fit an individual's measurements? Because the standard sizes used in industrial production and home sewing patterns are [http://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/this-britain/the-shape-of-things-to-wear-scientists-identify-how-womens-figures-have-changed-in-50-years-516259.html inadequate for a large part of the population]. Women, in particular, deviate greatly from the [http://www.slate.com/articles/arts/design/2012/01/clothing_sizes_getting_bigger_why_our_sizing_system_makes_no_sense_.html standard figure]. In America, for example, only 8 percent of women posses the hourglass figure that has long determined the proportions of clothing. It is no wonder that soan manyestimated clothes60% goof clothing goes unsold each year, even after multiple discounts, [http://www.dailyfinance.com/2010/04/02/what-happens-to-all-of-those-clothes-retailers-cant-sell/ ending up in landfills].

Recently there has been an increase in demand for made-to-measure clothing and re-defined standard measurements within the 'slow fashion' and 'eco fashion' movements. Tools optimized for made-to-measure clothing and special sizes are needed to meet this demand. These tools can be used in the effort to promote local and regionally based garment manufacturing, small batch textile manufacturing, 'slow fashion', and 'eco fashion'. We hope ValentinaSeamly2D helps people all over the world promote local and slow manufacturing of clothing.

When people hear about ValentinaSeamly2D some of them think it is a program like Blender or a 3D pattern making application. They ask questions like the following:

The answer to all these questions is quite simple: patternClothing makingis inmade from '''2D ismaterial. easyCreating togarments implement'''.on Ona thedigital othermannequin hand,in creating3D athen 3Dcutting patternthem makingalong programseam canlines beand veryflattening difficultthem andto '''expensive'''.cut Beforeout youin begincloth toresults developin softwarecomplicated youpieces needwith tomany knowunintended the'splits' limitswhich ofcreate yourmore developmentfabric team.waste Weand thinkmore thatsewing startingdifficulties developmentthan necessary. (Think of Valentinathe inglobal 2Dmap that is theflattened bestlike choicean fororange theskin. sizeThen andimagine skillattempting levelto offlatten oura teamshape atthat is exponentially more complicated than a thissimple momentsphere.)

One of the bad things about using the traditional methods is that you must have a good imagination. Especially when you have a complex pattern. This is where 3D can help. This is why we plan to useimport a2D patterns onto 3D mannequinmannequins in the future. A good 3D model could save us time and money.