Sleeve Block, McCunn System: Difference between revisions
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[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 1''']] |
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 1''']] |
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The McCunn method uses two reference lines. The '''Sleeve Centerline''' is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the Valentina measurement '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent'''. The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline. The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline. |
The McCunn method uses two reference lines. The '''Sleeve Centerline''' is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the Valentina measurement '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent'''. The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline. The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline. |
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Palm |
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Revision as of 17:32, 29 May 2017
Sleeve Block, McCunn System
These instructions are based on the instructions and method from the book How to Make Sewing Patterns by Don McCunn (1977 revised edition) ISBN 0-932538-00-2. This book has been updated and may be purchased from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/How-Make-Sewing-Patterns-second/dp/0932538215. In this tutorial, the method described there will be referred to as “the McCunn method”.
Measurements
The following Valentina measurements are required to construct a sleeve block using the McCunn method.
- L01 arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent
- L16 arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line
- L11 arm_upper_circ
- D04 hand_palm_circ
- L02 arm_shoulder_tip_to_elbow_bent
Before attempting to draft a sleeve pattern with this method, ensure that you have created and saved a measurement file (.vit) which contains values for L01, L02, L11, L16, and D04. This may be accomplished using the TAPE program.
The instructions for drafting a basic sleeve may be found on pages 71-75 in the 1977 revised edition or pages 79-82 in the 2016 second edition. In the McCunn method, the five measurements required to draft a basic sleeve are called
- Arm Length
- Sleeve Cap
- Biceps
- Palm
- Shoulder to Elbow
Formulas
Figure 1 shows the basic reference lines and other major lines used in constructing the main portion of the sleeve.
![](http://static.miraheze.org/seamlywiki/thumb/5/5b/Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg/300px-Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg)
The McCunn method uses two reference lines. The Sleeve Centerline is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the Valentina measurement arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent. The Biceps Line is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement arm_upper_circ plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at a distance of arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line from the top of the Sleeve Centerline. The Wrist Line is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement hand_palm_circ extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline.
Palm Shoulder to Elbow
![](http://static.miraheze.org/seamlywiki/thumb/8/87/McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg/300px-McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg)
Figure 2 shows the special points used in constructing the sleeve cap portion of the sleeve.