Sleeve Block, McCunn System: Difference between revisions

Line 31:

[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 1''']]

The McCunn method uses two reference lines. The '''Sleeve Centerline''' is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the Valentina measurement '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent'''.

The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline.

The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center. Wearing ease is defined in the book as a fixed number (1.5" in each half of the line for a total of 3"). This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline.

''To facilitate the pattern created in Valentina in being scalable, the wearing ease will be calculated as 20% of the arm_upper_circ. For example, a person with a measurement of 15" at the bicep would have a sleeve drawn by this method with 3" wearing ease.''

The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline. By using the palm circumference instead of the wrist circumference, we will ensure that the sleeve opening is large enough for the wearer's hand to pass through.

The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline. By using the palm circumference instead of the wrist circumference, we will ensure that the sleeve opening is large enough for the wearer's hand to pass through.

The Shoulder to Elbow Measurement would be used to place the elbow dart to shape the sleeve. Although the book describes adding a dart at the elbow, we will omit that from this tutorial because it does not add to the user's ability to learn to use the Valentina tools.

~~ ~~

'''Figure 2''' shows the special points used in constructing the sleeve cap portion of the sleeve.

[[File:McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg|~~center~~|thumb|'''Figure 2''']]

[[File:McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 2''']]

'''PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS PAGE IN UNDER CONSTRUCTION. '''

@@ Line 31: / Line 31: @@
 [[File:Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 1''']]
 The McCunn method uses two reference lines.  The '''Sleeve Centerline''' is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the Valentina measurement '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent'''.<br> <br>
-The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center.  This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline. <br> <br>
+The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center.  Wearing ease is defined in the book as a fixed number (1.5" in each half of the line for a total of 3").    This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline.<br> <br>
+''To facilitate the pattern created in Valentina in being scalable, the wearing ease will be calculated as 20% of the arm_upper_circ.  For example, a person with a measurement of 15" at the bicep would have a sleeve drawn by this method with 3" wearing ease.'' <br> <br>
-The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center.  This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline.  By using the palm circumference instead of the wrist circumference, we will ensure that the sleeve opening is large enough for the wearer's hand to pass through.  <br> <br>
+The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the Valentina measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center.  This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline.  By using the palm circumference instead of the wrist circumference, we will ensure that the sleeve opening is large enough for the wearer's hand to pass through.  <br> <br> <br> <br>
 The Shoulder to Elbow Measurement would be used to place the elbow dart to shape the sleeve.  Although the book describes adding a dart at the elbow, we will omit that from this tutorial because it does not add to the user's ability to learn to use the Valentina tools.
-<br> <br> <br> <br>
+<br> <br> <br>
 '''Figure 2''' shows the special points used in constructing the sleeve cap portion of the sleeve.
 <br> <br>
-[[File:McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg|center|thumb|'''Figure 2''']]
+[[File:McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 2''']]
 '''PLEASE NOTE THAT THIS PAGE IN UNDER CONSTRUCTION. '''