|
===Measurements=== <!--T:2-->
The sleeve block, like all ValentinaSeamly2D patterns is based on measuments of the intended wearer. Measurements must be recorded using the TAPE program (see [[Tape | Tape User Manual]]). <br> <br>
The following ValentinaSeamly2D measurements are required to construct a sleeve block using the McCunn method.
* L01 arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent
===[[Formulas_McCunn_Sleeve|Formulas]]=== <!--T:3-->
The '''Draw Mode''' of ValentinaSeamly2D is used to create the formula based drawing in support of the sleeve pattern. Further instructions on creating the drawing for the simple sleeve block pattern may be found for [[Formulas_McCunn_Sleeve|'''the arm portion''']] and [[Formulas_McCunn_Sleeve_pt2|'''the sleeve cap portion''']].<br> <br>
'''Figure 1''' presents the same information as a drawing from the book that describes the method. This picture shows the basic reference lines and other major lines used in constructing the main portion of the sleeve.
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 1 - Arm Portion''']]
The McCunn method uses two reference lines. The '''Sleeve Centerline''' is drawn as a vertical line with length equal to the ValentinaSeamly2D measurement '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent'''.<br> <br>
The '''Biceps Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the ValentinaSeamly2D measurement '''arm_upper_circ''' plus wearing ease extending on each side from the center. Wearing ease is defined in the book as a fixed number (1.5" in each half of the line for a total of 3"). This line is drawn at a distance of '''arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line''' from the top of the Sleeve Centerline.<br> <br>
''One strength of using a formula based tool, such as ValentinaSeamly2D to create a pattern is that the pattern may be generated based on individual measurements. The intent of this particular pattern is to be scalable from doll sized through the entire range of different sizes of potential human wearers. To facilitate the pattern created in ValentinaSeamly2D in being scalable, the wearing ease will be calculated as 20% of the arm_upper_circ. For example, a person with a measurement of 15" at the bicep would have a sleeve drawn by this method with 3" wearing ease.'' <br> <br>
The '''Wrist Line''' is drawn at a right angle to the Sleeve Centerline with half of the length of the ValentinaSeamly2D measurement '''hand_palm_circ''' extending on each side from the center. This line is drawn at the wrist end of the Sleeve Centerline. By using the palm circumference instead of the wrist circumference, we will ensure that the sleeve opening is large enough for the hand to pass through. <br> <br> The '''shoulder_to_elbow''' Measurement would be used to place the elbow dart to shape the sleeve. Although the book describes adding a dart at the elbow, we will omit that from this tutorial because it does not add to the user's ability to learn to use the ValentinaSeamly2D tools.<br> <br>
'''Figure 1-V''' shows the same drawing as '''Figure 1''', but shows the image as it will be presented in the valentinaSeamly2D program after you have finished the first half of the steps performed in the '''Draw Mode''' of this tutorial. The steps of the [[Formulas_McCunn_Sleeve|'''the arm portion''']] will create this construct which will act as the basis for the arm portion of the sleeve pattern.
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-13.jpg|left|thumb|700x700px|'''Figure 1-V - Represents ValentinaSeamly2D Drawing of Arm Portion''']]<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> ▼The lines shown in the goldenrod color will not be printed on the final pattern. The lines shown in the black color will be incorporated later during the steps in the ''' detailsDetails Mode''' steps to form part of the printed pattern. ▼<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> ▼
'''Figure 2''' shows the special points used in the second half of the sleeve block pattern tutorial will demonstrate how to define the formula based drawing used for construction of [[Formulas_McCunn_Sleeve_pt2|'''the sleeve cap portion''']] of the sleeve pattern.<br> <br> <br> <br>
▲[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-13.jpg|left|thumb|700x700px|'''Figure 1-V - Represents Valentina Drawing of Arm Portion''']]<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
▲The lines shown in the goldenrod color will not be printed on the final pattern. The lines shown in the black color will be incorporated during the '''details''' steps to form part of the printed pattern.
▲<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
The [[Formulas_McCunn_Sleeve-pt2|detailed instructions]] for the second half of the sleeve block pattern will create constructs to define the arm hole curve and the sleeve cap portions of the sleeve pattern.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
'''Figure 2''' shows the special points used in constructing the sleeve cap portion of the sleeve.
<br> <br>
[[File:McCunn-sl-cap-const.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 2''']]
|