Formulas McCunn Sleeve: Difference between revisions
→This section describes how to draw a basic sleeve block using the McCunn System
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== This
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[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-construction.jpg|left|thumb|'''Figure 1'''|196x196px]]
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'''Figure 1''' shows the basic reference lines and other major lines used in constructing the main portion of the sleeve.<br> <br>
The instructions in this section will describe the process to use formulas in the
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To begin creating a sleeve pattern using the McCunn method, open
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-2.jpg|601x601px|'''Figure 2'''|right|thumb]]
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The basic window shown in '''Figure 2''' will remain visible during the rest of the pattern creation and until the
* L01 arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent
* L16 arm_shoulder_tip_to_armfold_line
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[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-3.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 3'''|left]]
Each time Valentina creates a new pattern piece a base point is created. Because “McCunn-basic-sleeve” is the first pattern piece in the pattern file created in this example, the base point is labeled “A”. ▼
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'''McCunn method - step 1)''' The first line, which is the Sleeve Centerline (shown in '''Figure 1'''), may be seen as a line from the shoulder point to the wrist. Draft this line using the “point at distance and angle” tool. That tool is found on the Valentina Point sub menu. Click on point A and drag the rubber band line in a downward direction. The angle and distance need not initially be precise because a window (as shown in '''Figure 4''') will pop up and provide the opportunity to make adjustments to the values. [[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-4.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 4''']]▼
'''McCunn method - step 1)''' The first line, which is the Sleeve Centerline (shown in '''Figure 1'''), may be seen as a line from the shoulder point to the wrist. Draft this line using the “point at distance and angle” tool. <br> <br>
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Use the Angle data entry box on this window to ensure that the angle is 270 degrees exactly.
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The length of the line is represented as a numerical length (which is a result of the length the user dragged the rubber band line). Delete that numerical value and click on the function icon. The function icon may be recognized by the label f(x).
▲<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-5.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 5''']]
As a result of clicking the function icon, a formula window will appear (as represented in '''Figure 5''') to provide options for creating a formula. <br>
Options for data that may be included in the formula include the items listed on the left side of the window under the words Input data. In this case, a measurement will be chosen, specifically “arm_shoulder_tip_to_wrist_bent” which corresponds to the measurement called “arm length” in the McCunn method. <br> <br> A point is created at the wrist end of this line and is automatically labeled "A1".
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[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-6.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 6'''|left|150x150px]]'''McCunn method - step 2)''' The next reference line is called the biceps line (as shown in '''Figure 1'''). <br> <br>The line is drawn perpendicular to the Sleeve Centerline at a point that represents the length of the sleeve cap. First the “Point at distance along line” tool will be used to mark the point that defines the edge of the sleeve cap. <br> <br>'''Figure 6''' illustrates the window that will pop up for data entry. <br> <br> <br>
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-6.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 6'''|center]] <br> <br>▼
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Click on the
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▲[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-7.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 7'''|center]]<br> <br>
<!--T:8-->[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-8.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 8''']]Now that the edge of the sleevecap has been located, the “point along perpendicular” tool will be used to draft the bicep line. A perpendicular line which is 1 1/2” plus half of the biceps measurement will be drawn on each side of the sleeve centerline. Select the “point along perpendicular“ tool, then select point A2 as the first point of line and point A as the second point of line. The Help Sentence will indicate the time to select each point. The “point along perpendicular” window ('''figure 8''') will show the formula. It will also show that the label A3 was assigned to the point created and that the “additional angle degrees will be left at the default value of 0 degrees. That corresponds to the line at a right angle to the vertical Sleeve Centerline to the left side. <!--T:9-->
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Click “OK” to exit the data entry window and click “OK” to exit the “point along perpendicular” tool window. You should see points A, A1, A2, and A3 along with the sleeve centerline and the left half of the biceps line. '''Figure 10''' shows how your
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-10.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 10''']]
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Each of the two Arm Seam Lines will be constructed using the “line between points” tool. This tool is grouped under the heading “Line” in the tool menu. Select the “line between points” tool and pay attention to the Help Sentence to know when to position the cursor over points A3, A5, A4, and A6 respectively. One line will be drawn between A3 and A5 and one will be drawn between A4 and A6. '''Figure 13''' shows how the
[[File:Mccunn-sleeve-fig-1-13.jpg|thumb|'''Figure 13'''|737x737px]]
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It may be helpful to review '''figure 1''' from this tutorial and figures 146 and 147 from the page 72 of 1977 edition or the figures on page 80 in the 2016 second edition of the book How to Make Sewing Patterns at this time.
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